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Hotter speed and turning than competition kites. Higher-quality exercise and livelier pull than power kites. WindDances are "airgear," a new concept. They fly better and feel more exciting than typical stunt kites. Our other advancements: Ergo T-handles that boost feel, control, exercise. Natural active FLY-a-kite skill. |
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How to make or replace WindDance bridle lines
To make and install WindDance bridle lines, use "unskilled labor" -- the skill category of Third-World textile workers who earn 50 cents an hour as they produce the clothes you wear and the pack you carry.
Replacing broken or worn bridle lines, from the clear instructions and free materials we provide, is a snap. Because we in the First World are just as smart at following simple directions -- and are just as skillful at measuring a string with a ruler, marking a string with a pencil, cutting a string with scissors, and tying and tightening a knot near the end of a string. Right? It's easy, really.
(FYI. In general, the huge savings from dirt-cheap labor abroad -- often at huge injustice and great harm to the workers -- are not being passed on to consumers here. For example, a $50 pair of jeans contains about a dollar's worth of material and 50 cents of labor. America's big-box retailers, who buy directly from Third World manufacturers, enjoy net profit margins as high as 75% on many items [end profit = 3-times total cost] because members of their oligopoly don't price-compete all that much with each other; for those products, 75% of the price you pay is pure profit. Ever wonder how they can afford those endless 50%-off sales? Seattle AirGear's net profit margin, and the factory working conditions where WindDances were made, didn't come close.)
In an email, specify the exact A/B/T-lines and other bridle parts you want to replace. We'll mail you enough free #346/#207 bonded dacron as well as free connector loops, linkline, adjuster lines, and mooring-loop material until our extensive supplies run out.
Use page 33 of the User's Manual to identify the A/B/T-lines you need. Use the specs and instructions below to make the replacement lines. Use the WindDance Bridle Assembly Instructions to install them.
A-lines (all) and B1-lines: #346 bonded dacron.
T1-lines and all other B-lines: #207 bonded dacron.
XL (for A/B-lines) = "short line" distance (centimeters) from end of loop to knot at webbing-loop end.
YL (for A/B-lines) = "long line" distance (centimeters) from end of loop to knot at webbing-loop end.
XL (for T1-line) = distance (centimeters) from end of loop to end of loop.
How to make A-lines and B-lines: Make endloop of "short line" (see "How to make an endloop" below), then from end of that loop measure to and mark XL on the line, then 5 cm farther out from that mark cut the line. Make endloop of "long line" (see endloop hint below), then from end of that loop measure to and mark YL on the line, then 5 cm farther out from that mark cut the line. The next step joins the "short line" and "long line" into an A-line or B-line pair. Match XL and YL marks while holding "short line" and "long line" together, then tie an overhand knot (the simplest-possible kind of knot) in the double line at XL/YL marks so that the marks barely show on the WindDancer side of the knot (not on the WindDance side), then trim the two ends (there's no need for a 2-cm loop there as on factory-produced WindDances).
How to make an endloop in an A-line, B-line, or T-line: Make a mark on the line 20 cm from the end, then bend the end to the mark, then tie two overhand knots in the double line to complete the loop. The two knots shorten the loop by 1.7 cm for #346 bonded dacron (a fact you don't really need), by 1.3 cm for #207 bonded dacron (a fact you do need to make T1-lines, see below).
How to make T1-lines: Make one endloop (see "How to make an endloop" above), then from end of that loop measure to and mark the dimension "XL + 10 cm + 1.3 cm" on the line, then cut the line at the mark, then make other endloop.
* For Original WD1, add 0.4
WindDance2000 1 Line XL YL A1 (#346) 45.9 93.7 A2 (#346) 52.2 86.6 A3 (#346) 60.9 79.4 A4 (#346) 70.5 70.5 B1 (#346) 50.8* 99.7 B2 (#207) 56.8** 91.0 B3 (#207) 75.5 75.5 T1 (#207) 89.6*** ---
** For Original WD1, add 0.2
*** For Original WD1, add 0.4
* For Original WD2, add 0.4
WindDance2000 2 Line XL YL A1 (#346) 62.4 125.5 A2 (#346) 67.6 118.3 A3 (#346) 75.3 111.4 A4 (#346) 84.6 102.9 A5 (#346) 93.9 93.9 B1 (#346) 66.4* 131.3 B2 (#207) 71.5** 122.3 B3 (#207) 89.6 107.0 T1 (#207) 122.4*** ---
** For Original WD2, add 0.2
*** For Original WD2, add 0.4
* For Original WD3, add 0.4
WindDance2000 3 Line XL YL A1 (#346) 79.0 157.4 A2 (#346) 83.6 149.7 A3 (#346) 90.6 143.0 A4 (#346) 99.1 135.0 A5 (#346) 108.2 126.4 A6 (#346) 117.4 117.4 B1 (#346) 82.4* 163.2 B2 (#207) 86.9** 153.9 B3 (#207) 103.9 138.7 B4 (#207) 121.8 121.8 T1 (#207) 155.6*** ---
** For Original WD3, add 0.2
*** For Original WD3, add 0.4
Linkline. Completed linkline length from tip-of-loop to tip-of-loop: 68.8 cm for WD1, 88.1 cm for WD2, 107.4 cm for WD3. 50-lb to 100-lb test line.
Connector loops. 100 cm material length before forming loop at one end and tying knot at other end. 220-lb test line.
Adjuster lines. 25 cm material length before tying knot at end. 100-lb test line.
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